Post by ogeezer on Mar 26, 2007 9:39:05 GMT -6
I'm told every woman appreciates a good "stud" but when it comes to DIY projects, the question arises whether it is best to go with wood or metal wall framing components.
Most everyone is familar with what dimensional wood framing members look like. Metal components, typically metal studs & tracks are a different matter, so here's an example:
Now for determining the better material, let's examine the following comparisons.
Strength: Wood is definitely the sturdier of the two materials. Metal tends to be flimsy, but once the drywall is screwed to it, it is strong and rigid. However, metal would not be suitable for hanging cabinets or heavy mirrors. Metal framing has no structural strength and can only be used for partition walls.
Convenience: Metal wins here, hands down. It is lighter than wood and since it is not a solid material, two metal studs only take up the space of one piece of lumber. This makes for easier transporting. Metal is cut using aviation snips, which means no sawdust. However, gloves should be worn to protect the hands and care must be taken to clean up any small pieces that end up on the floor.
Cost: At first glance, metal seems to be less expensive than wood. However, electrical boxes for metal studs cost more, and plastic grommets are required for running standard electrical wires unless shielded BX cable is used. Metal also requires screws for construction, and for attaching moldings. Even if the initial cost of lumber is more than the metal studs, the additional costs involved in using the metal evens things out.
Forgiveness: Make a mistake in measuring? Stud not vertical? Since metal studs are attached with screws removing and moving studs is simple.
Stability: Wood is prone to twisting and warping; metal is not. Wood also wicks moisture; metal does not. However, metal does rust, so a vapour barrier or sill gasket is still required between the bottom plate and the concrete floor.
Environmental Concerns: Wood comes from trees, and the environmentalist wackos out there will lay on the guilt trip for cutting down trees and starving the planet of oxygen. Metal is processed in refineries, causing pollution that the environmentalist wackos will claim is responsible for depleting our ozone layer resulting in global warming. Wood scrap is biodegradable, and smaller pieces can be composted. Metal is recyclable, though the environmentalist wackos may have a word or two to say about the recycling process. The lesser of two evils is a matter of perspective and dependant on whether or not you are an environmentalist wacko.
Fire Concerns: Wood burns, metal does not. If it gets hot enuff, it mite melt but unlike wood it will not feed a fire. A wall built with metal studs is virtually fireproof.
Cold Transfer: Metal conducts cold. Metal studs on an outside wall will transfer the cold. Therefore a polystyrene or rigid foam insulation is recommended between the outside wall and the metal. I did not take this step but did not notice any major problems. With wood, cold transfer is less than with metal, but it still exists.
Having worked with both materials, I believe that one is not necessarily better than the other. It basically comes down to personal preference.
Metal studs come in the same dimensions as lumber. The system consists of two main components, the track and the stud.
Metal Component Building Technique: The tracks are usually installed first fastened to the concrete slab. The top track, laid out and duplicates the markings for the stud locations (typically 16" o.c.). Then the top track is move outward and in the interim 2 or more metal studs are aligned to the proper location markings & screwed in place (one side) and when the wall is raised & held in position, the opposite side of the stud & track is connected. The remaining studs are then inserted in the tracks and twisted in place until they are square. Wafer screws or framing screws hold everything together.
Since most metal studs have pre-cut holes for running electricals or plumbing lines, be sure when raising (building) a wall, align all precut holes correspond -- doing so will prevent having to detach and reset the metal studs later.
For those of you really interested in steel framing (metal stud technology) in home building & remodeling, the perfect companion book with more info than you will probably need is Tim Waite's: Steel-Frame House Construction paperback book that comes with a CD-ROM featuring labor and materials estimate section plus extensive construction details. ... I don't believe the Wharton County Library has this book ... but you can get it thru this site:
www.craftsman-book.com
for less than $40.
Most everyone is familar with what dimensional wood framing members look like. Metal components, typically metal studs & tracks are a different matter, so here's an example:
Now for determining the better material, let's examine the following comparisons.
Strength: Wood is definitely the sturdier of the two materials. Metal tends to be flimsy, but once the drywall is screwed to it, it is strong and rigid. However, metal would not be suitable for hanging cabinets or heavy mirrors. Metal framing has no structural strength and can only be used for partition walls.
Convenience: Metal wins here, hands down. It is lighter than wood and since it is not a solid material, two metal studs only take up the space of one piece of lumber. This makes for easier transporting. Metal is cut using aviation snips, which means no sawdust. However, gloves should be worn to protect the hands and care must be taken to clean up any small pieces that end up on the floor.
Cost: At first glance, metal seems to be less expensive than wood. However, electrical boxes for metal studs cost more, and plastic grommets are required for running standard electrical wires unless shielded BX cable is used. Metal also requires screws for construction, and for attaching moldings. Even if the initial cost of lumber is more than the metal studs, the additional costs involved in using the metal evens things out.
Forgiveness: Make a mistake in measuring? Stud not vertical? Since metal studs are attached with screws removing and moving studs is simple.
Stability: Wood is prone to twisting and warping; metal is not. Wood also wicks moisture; metal does not. However, metal does rust, so a vapour barrier or sill gasket is still required between the bottom plate and the concrete floor.
Environmental Concerns: Wood comes from trees, and the environmentalist wackos out there will lay on the guilt trip for cutting down trees and starving the planet of oxygen. Metal is processed in refineries, causing pollution that the environmentalist wackos will claim is responsible for depleting our ozone layer resulting in global warming. Wood scrap is biodegradable, and smaller pieces can be composted. Metal is recyclable, though the environmentalist wackos may have a word or two to say about the recycling process. The lesser of two evils is a matter of perspective and dependant on whether or not you are an environmentalist wacko.
Fire Concerns: Wood burns, metal does not. If it gets hot enuff, it mite melt but unlike wood it will not feed a fire. A wall built with metal studs is virtually fireproof.
Cold Transfer: Metal conducts cold. Metal studs on an outside wall will transfer the cold. Therefore a polystyrene or rigid foam insulation is recommended between the outside wall and the metal. I did not take this step but did not notice any major problems. With wood, cold transfer is less than with metal, but it still exists.
Having worked with both materials, I believe that one is not necessarily better than the other. It basically comes down to personal preference.
Metal studs come in the same dimensions as lumber. The system consists of two main components, the track and the stud.
Metal Component Building Technique: The tracks are usually installed first fastened to the concrete slab. The top track, laid out and duplicates the markings for the stud locations (typically 16" o.c.). Then the top track is move outward and in the interim 2 or more metal studs are aligned to the proper location markings & screwed in place (one side) and when the wall is raised & held in position, the opposite side of the stud & track is connected. The remaining studs are then inserted in the tracks and twisted in place until they are square. Wafer screws or framing screws hold everything together.
Since most metal studs have pre-cut holes for running electricals or plumbing lines, be sure when raising (building) a wall, align all precut holes correspond -- doing so will prevent having to detach and reset the metal studs later.
For those of you really interested in steel framing (metal stud technology) in home building & remodeling, the perfect companion book with more info than you will probably need is Tim Waite's: Steel-Frame House Construction paperback book that comes with a CD-ROM featuring labor and materials estimate section plus extensive construction details. ... I don't believe the Wharton County Library has this book ... but you can get it thru this site:
www.craftsman-book.com
for less than $40.