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Post by ogeezer on Aug 6, 2007 15:09:23 GMT -6
Instead of devoting a separate thread for each topic in gardening, I'm gonna bundle them all together as a way of saving space or to alleviate searching thru all the gardening ideas, tips, techniques, materials, methods, and whatnots of this forum. I hope you'll add your knowledge and tidbits to the thread.
Beginning with: TESTING SOIL DRAINAGE
Good soil drainage is a requirement for most garden plants. This simple method allows you to test your soil drainage. Remove both ends from a large coffee can and push it about an inch or two into the soil.
Fill the coffee can with water and time how long it takes to drain.
If it takes over an hour for all the water in the can to disappear, this indicates the area may have poor drainage. If you have poorly draining soil, it may be a good idea to either choose another site for the plants or use a raised bed to facilitate good drainage.
Of course, by adding compost containing some sand and working it into the existing soil with a motorized tiller or by turning the garden or bed with a garden fork over time will improve the soil, permitting it to be more porous for your gardening needs.
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Post by ogeezer on Aug 7, 2007 10:43:58 GMT -6
TATER FARMINGWe've always bought our potatoes from truck farmers or in bulk from grocers but with the rising cost of fuel and other issues, it seems growing them will be less expensive this year. As such, in a joint venture with a couple of my neighbors, we're going to try our hand at Tater farming, which requires a bit of info research. Potato plants need plenty of sunshine, a well drained soil, and no weed or grass interference. Ideal soil is a loose sandy loam with plenty of humus and potash content. Soil needs to have a pH of 4.8-6.5, but don’t hesitate to plant them if the pH is a little higher than that. Almost any good garden soil will raise potatoes, but like anything else, potatoes have their limitations where climate and soil are concerned. Don’t expect much of a crop where wet or boggy conditions prevail. Most local feed stores have seed potatoes available in early Fall, which is just around the corner. Potatoes do best when temperatures go down to about 53°F at night and do not soar into the upper 80s or 90s during the day, something that makes this an ideal crop in this area. If purchased locally, you will probably get whole potatoes, which you will need to prepare for planting. Simply cut the potatoes in fairly large pieces, each piece containing one or two eyes. It’s best not to have several eyes on a piece as too many shoots will develop, thus cutting down on the yield. Cut the pieces a day or so in advance of planting. Spread them out on a level surface in a cool room so that the cut surfaces will dry somewhat - a “cured” surface is more disease resistant than fresh cut. A second prevention against disease is to put the pieces in a bag containing some powdered sulphur; shake until all are coated and plant. The old reliable method for planting potato pieces is to plant them in “hills.” Pieces are buried eyes up, 3 to 4 inches deep, two to a hill in hills spaced about 20 to 24 inches apart. Soil should be in good condition and deeply pulverized. In recent years, tater growers are returning to the row crop method. Another method also popular with gardeners with an abundance of leaves is the leaf pile method. Out here in the boonies, we're gonna try all three methods to see what has the best yields. If clay soil is a problem, it should be improved several weeks ahead of time by adding plenty of organic material, compost, etc. Heavy soil restricts the growth of potato tubers, which is why the leaf pile method will be employed for land which hasn't been used for gardening before. Other tater growing recommendations: - Plants need plenty of water to develop tubers, so don’t hesitate to water thoroughly if there is a prolonged dry spell.
- Potatoes should be dug as soon as vines die down.
- Tubers may be spread in a shady place until any clinging dirt has dried. Whisk the dirt off with a soft brush in order to avoid damaging the tender skins and move them to a cool, dark, well-ventilated area for storage.
As for kind of potatoes planted, that's still not resolved but more than likely it'll be more toward the Red varieties with a splattering of Idaho types, and prehaps some sweet potatoes thrown in.
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DirtyDon
Founding Member
Official Beer Czar
In Cerevisia Veritas! Cogito sumere potum alterum.
Posts: 8,499
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Post by DirtyDon on Aug 7, 2007 11:21:02 GMT -6
Anybody ever tried this.. great if you have limited space.. Potatoes without a gardenIf you have no established garden plot, or if there just isn't enough available space within your garden, you can still grow a respectable crop of spuds, and do a little recycling at the same time. Potatoes thrive in the warm environment of a soil filled tire! Four tires + Two pounds of seed potatoes + Good soil = 20-30 pounds of winter potatoes! Pick a spot where you can stack your tires which is out of the way and preferably out of sight. Loosen the surface of the soil just enough to allow for drainage, and set your largest tire in place. Fill the inside of the tire casing loosely with good topsoil, and then set 3-4 potato seeds into the soil. (Use sticks or rocks to keep the casing rings spread open.) Add enough soil to the tire "hole" to bring it to the same level as the soil inside the tire. When the new plants are eight inches tall, add another tire and soil to the stack, as in the first level. Repeat the process for your third, and if desired, fourth tires. As you add tires and soil to the stack, the 8" of the plant stalk is covered with soil. By doing this, the existing stalk essentially reverts to a root status and the plant is forced to grow upward to once again find the sunlight which it needs. (much like if you were to try to eliminate a dandelion by covering it with a scoop of soil) By raising the soil level this way (in 8" increments) the plant is able to continue growing without suffocation, and at the same time you are creating a 24-30" tap root from which many more lateral roots can develop. Each lateral root can then produce additional potatoes (at 3-4 levels rather than the normal single layer). When you water, be sure that the soil is thoroughly moistened all the way to the base of the pile. The tires act as an insulator and heat "sink" for your potatoes. This added warmth will cause the lateral roots (where the new potatoes form) to multiply more rapidly, thereby giving you more potatoes. When you need fresh potatoes next fall and winter, harvest the crop from the top tire, and remove it from the pile. More potatoes??? Next tire... P.S..... You can also use this method to grow your own peanuts, but only in two tire stacks! www.thegardenhelper.com/potato.html(I like this method, on account I'm lazy)
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