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Post by ogeezer on Feb 18, 2007 20:37:47 GMT -6
You can not understand the Vietnamese until you first understand the importance of the family. As in many other Asian countries, family is the foundation of Vietnamese society.
In retrospect, in Iraq, the foundation for families is religion. Making both countries more unlike than what outsiders compare to their own homeland.
Tho the Viet Nam people portray a view that the American war (as they call it) has little bearing on Vietnam today, it is easy to see that great emphasis is given to displaying relics of that era as a reminder of the times. & while playing with & counting your dong (Viet money) ... non-Viet speaking tourists quickly learn to say NO (khong) when touring markets and when asked about private matters (where are you staying; how can I come to America), answer with the phrase "Khong biet!" meaning "I don't know!"
The differences between our modern culture and theirs takes some getting used to. It is hard to express the value of the experience. Conditions are less than favorable and ultimately just plain uncomfortable. No refrigerator, tepid drinking water that must be boiled, no supermarket, no microwave or stove, no air conditioning (beyond our hotel), bamboo mats as beds (again outside our hotel), few paved roads, and for most of the population, long hours in the fields, little time, and even less money…
…Life in the countryside has thus far proven to be supremely interesting, if not just for the incredible differences in their way of life. The land is beautiful. We are surrounded by lush tropical greenery (it looks EXACTLY like any war movie you may have seen), endless rice paddies, lakes, and tall, green mountains. The people here speak no English, but are extremely kind. Being bilingual individuals in the group means a surprisingly large of amount of communication can be made without words. It doesn't take long for the average tourist, the unknowing, to become fairly comfortable with the subtleties of Vietnamese culture (i.e. appropriate manners for communal meals, where and when to remove your shoes, and how to address elders) and making an attempt at learning some Vietnamese.
Vietnamese people are very gracious, polite and generous and will make every effort to make guests feel comfortable. Do not be surprised if somebody you have just met invites you home to meet the family and friends. These are the experiences that will enrich your visit to Vietnam. If invited into a Vietnamese home, always remove your shoes at the front door when entering. Ask for permission when taking a photograph of someone. If they indicate that they do not want you to, then abide by their wishes.
From the worker's simple outfits in the rice fields to western style business suits in the city, the Vietnamese are conservative in their dress. Visitors wearing shorts are only just tolerated. Wear conservative clothing if you visit a culturally sensitive area such as a temple or pagoda -- the less bare skin the better. It's never a good idea to wear revealing clothing.
Keep in mind that, although tolerant, people may be judgmental. Unfortunately you cannot expect hospitality at every turn and you may experience problems with petty theft and pick pockets. This is more prevalent in Ho Chi Minh City (Sai Gon), which we visited on Valentine's Day, the day before we caught our flight home. Our only problem with loss of our belongings came from the Viet officals who forced us to give up our digital camera and 35mm film at the airport; and tho we had assurances that permitted photos + the cam would be returned to us by the Govt, I'm doubtful that will occur.
In other areas, especially in the north, reports of these activities are extremely minimal. It is not something to be paranoid about but staying aware of your surroundings, in much the same way you would be in America, makes visiting Vietnam more enjoyable.
...next installment: something about the country from the perspective of a Vietnam veteran with Vietnamese wife returning to the country after 30+ years absence...
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Post by ogeezer on Feb 22, 2007 12:12:15 GMT -6
...not much interest here from ya'll, so gonna quit with installments... and chalk whole prespective presentation up as a waste of time...
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DirtyDon
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In Cerevisia Veritas! Cogito sumere potum alterum.
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Post by DirtyDon on Feb 22, 2007 12:35:40 GMT -6
No, continue, we enjoy hearing something from someone we trust.. our other options are to hear from someone in the Press, Hollywood, or from some Commie Hack in Ho Chi Minh City... Please continue..
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Post by Sílený Jízda on Feb 22, 2007 13:05:46 GMT -6
Yeap, I like to read the stuff too.
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Post by ogeezer on Feb 22, 2007 17:35:44 GMT -6
Okay, i'll get my thots collected, my head-screwed on again, and tackle it tomorrow ... thanks for the vote of confidence, since I've been accused on occasions of boring-the-hell outa people
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DirtyDon
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In Cerevisia Veritas! Cogito sumere potum alterum.
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Post by DirtyDon on Feb 22, 2007 17:41:52 GMT -6
Okay, i'll get my thots collected, my head-screwed on again, and tackle it tomorrow ... thanks for the vote of confidence, since I've been accused on occasions of boring-the-hell outa people Balderdash! You have interesting interests that interests me. dull and boring, you ain't.
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DirtyDon
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In Cerevisia Veritas! Cogito sumere potum alterum.
Posts: 8,499
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Post by DirtyDon on Feb 22, 2007 18:54:34 GMT -6
We have to rely on the account of the people who we know and trust who were really there. In too many cases here lately, history, facts, reality has been distorted by people with a politcal agenda.. Liberal scumbags won't understand a word I just said.
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Post by ogeezer on Feb 23, 2007 6:07:28 GMT -6
The first thing you have to realize about Vietnam Today is – nothing is what it seems.
** No one has sex outside of marriage here apparently. Yet the teenage abortion rate is horrifically high. Everyone seemingly has a mobile phone and a motorbike but the average wage is a dollar a day.
** Befriend a local and they will spend their last few cents on a meal for you. They will refuse to take anything towards the cost (and you probably shouldn’t offer) and they will be genuinely honored to eat with you. You can make a friend for life in seconds. At the same time, if someone collapses in the street, people will walk by. Or worse, stop to stare but do nothing.
** As a foreigner the Police will leave you alone. They know you bring money into this country. But that works both ways too. They may not help you when you need them either.
** Everywhere is manic with activity yet strangely serene. Eventually your ears will filter out the noise and you’ll fall in step with the traffic. You’ll wonder why it seemed so scary when you first arrived.
** I understand that when you think of Vietnam the chances are your first thought is of the American War (that’s what it’s called in these parts – and what else would they call it if you think about it for a second).
** Seventy percent of the population were born after the war. And the American war was a blip in amongst centuries of other wars. In my experience Vietnamese tend to look forward rather than back – understand the horrors of that war; something we as Americans have lost in our country since the war in Vietnam ended. Put it in context and move on. Vietnam has.
** Don’t worry about your personal safety. Or at least don’t panic about it. Vietnam is probably the safest place you will visit. But don’t be stupid. Hue isn’t too bad but by all accounts bag snatching is on the rise in Sai Gon (now known as Ho Chi Minh City. Just keep things close to you. Honestly money belts are not needed. Stick you wallet in your pocket, like you do at home.
** People will rip you off sometimes. They need the money. But that doesn’t mean that people will ALWAYS rip you off.
** This isn't Mexico: Sometimes the price they say is THE price. There is no need for haggling. Other times you can haggle and haggle to get a couple of cents knocked off. Why bother? The American dollar here goes a long way, even when converted to the national denomination, the Dong.
** Find out what things cost. Don’t accept the rip off price but accept the reasonable price. And while we’re at it, westerners don’t always pay more than locals (transport aside). That’s a myth.
** And yes people are poor here. Ignore the TV shops, the motorbikes, the cars etc. It’s for a (growing) select few. Most people still live in a one room home and sleep on the floor. Remember that.
** Learn a few of words of Vietnamese. Hello (Chao Anh) and Please (Anh lam on) and thank-you (Cam on) will do it. It’ll make people smile at the very least, especially as most visitors will mispronounce the words. Smiling is important there. Smile when you’re haggling, smile when you’re arguing, smile when you’re asking for your money back. People will appreciate it and actually it’s a nicer way to live. If you’re being over charged make an “oh my god” face, but do it half smiling. They’ll realize they’ve been unfair but they’ll smile back in a “I’ve been caught” way and most likely offer you the real price.
** Relax…they can smell nervous tourists and it’s like a red rag to a bull. At least pretend you know what you’re doing without being arrogant.
** Learn to enjoy it even when things go wrong. They will go wrong. Vietnam is slapstick and bizarre and that is why so many of us love it. Vietnamese people know their country is bizarre. Get stuck in a traffic jam in a taxi and the driver will turn to you laughing, shrug and say: “Vietnam”. As if that is the reason for the madness. Remember, each situation is another experience and another good traveller’s tale. Learn to laugh at the problems and live with it.
** Oh and they will call you fat. They will ask how much you weigh, how old you are, how much you earn, how much your camera cost. Compared to them you probably are fat – and answer the questions truthfully – who cares?
** Leave your ego and impatience behind and it’ll work out just fine.
** My final piece of advice is: play the idiot. Play the big western lump. Catch their eye when they’re laughing at you (you are funny) and laugh with them. Pull a face at the kids.
You can not understand the Vietnamese until you first understand the importance of the family. As in many other Asian countries, family is the foundation of Vietnamese society. Many families have 3 generations living under one roof. Today, however, more and more couples are choosing to move into their own homes. (And more can afford to do so!) But it is also traditional for a married couple to care for the man's parents; subsequently, it is very important to have a son! If there is only one son, he and his wife must live with his parents. If there are no sons, one of the daugters may remain unmarried and care for her parents.
Decision-making is a family affair. As a Vietnamese friend explained, "In your country, when you turn 18, you can make decisions for yourself. In Vietnam, if I were 40 and my parents are still alive, I must ask them." Little wonder things change slowly here.
Dating is a little more complicated than in most western countries. If a boy asks a girl for a date, they may go for a ride around town or perhaps for a cup of coffee, but never a movie. (Any girl who would got to see a film on the first or second date is considered easy!) If they decide to go steady, the boy will ask the girl if he can meet her family. If she agrees, he'll visit the house, usually on a Saturday or Sunday night, and meet the entire clan. He will then visit regularly, usually once a week on Saturday or Sunday night.
The decision to marry is of course a family one. When a couple decides to marry, they first ask their parents for permission. Having been granted permission, the couple then visits each set of parents, usually bringing gifts of food or wine.
Male tourists will frequently be asked by both men and women (and even children!) if you like Vietnamese girls, as in women. (Yes, "girls" are single females, "women" are the married ones in Vietnam!) The appropriate answer is yes (Da); in fact, the only answer is yes, as you will offend them if you respond with anything else!
Don't be surprised, however, if you receive a cool to downright hostile reception when you are seen with a female Vietnamese person in public. Apparently the Vietnamese take great pride in Western men marrying Vietnamese "girls", but frown on them dating. Go figure! ... personally being married to a Vietnamese woman, I was made to feel somewhat like a celebrity according to the Vietnamese standard, especially having fathered as they say Ameriasians (known here as Asian-American) children.
The Vietnamese are a touchy-feeling kind of people. Men in particular will find that people will touch you, squeeze your arm, pat your back and put their arm around your shoulder. This includes men, boys and young girls, but never women! Do not be alarmed, this is considered perfectly normal.
Public displays of affection between members of the opposite sex are frowned upon and are almost never seen. Ironically, Vietnamese of the same sex frequently hold hands, walk arm-in-arm, or ride down the street with their hand on a friend's shoulder. (I still cannot get used to construction workers in hardhats walking down the street with their arms around each other!)
RETROSPECTIVE: My consciousness has been bombarded with the Vietnam War ever since I served there. The war dominated TV for many years and had a dramatic affect on American culture, so the prospect of visiting Vietnam was a bit daunting. However, after spending 2 weeks there, I came to realize that Vietnam is no longer The Vietnam War. The war is over, though in many ways it will always be a part of who I am. The Vietnamese of today are focused on living their lives, just like the Americans. They are not angry at Americans and have no desire to fight Americans, or anyone else for that matter. Visiting Vietnam helped morph my war dominated association with this country into a more healthy, balanced view.
Until next time when you'll learn more about the Vietnamese way of life...
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Post by ogeezer on Feb 25, 2007 12:56:31 GMT -6
ANYONE going to Vietnam would be wise to bone up on some of the unique customs and superstitions of the country, lest they cause confusion, misunderstandings, hard-feelings, or loss of friendship. the old saying, "when in Rome, do as the Romans do" cannot be applied to the letter in Vietnam, but it is still very important that we respect certain customs and superstitions of the people. Many Vietnamese having extensive contact with Americans have begun to understand American ways and have even adopted some of them for their own use. However, there are thousands of ordinary folk whose customs have not changed in tens of generations, and probably won't during the time you are there either.
GREETING PEOPLE Most of the Vietnamese in urban areas no longer bow when they meet each other. In formal gatherings, at religious place, and sometimes in the country areas, one may see the people clasp their hands together in a prayer-like gesture and bow slightly. This is not practiced to any extent in everyday life in Vietnam as it is in neighboring Thailand.
The custom of handshaking, formerly considered barbaric to the Vietnamese, is now achieving popularity due to the Western influence in the country. Men will generally shake hands and say the equivalent of "how are you" and tip their hats when greeting people. Women, especially those in the countryside, still shy away from shaking hands, especially with men from their own country. It is best not to offer to shake hands with a woman unless she offers her hand first.
MAKING INTRODUCTIONS Whereas Americans often immediately introduce themselves in given situations, the ordinary people of Vietnam think this to be rather bold and like to have a mutual acquaintance make the introduction. They will rarely introduce themselves when going into a home or office until asked to do so. This may be due to their innate shyness and modesty.
Names carry great importance in Vietnam. Often Vietnamese will have secret names, known only to themselves and their parents. If it is given away, the person believes he is exposed to evil spirits. Except in rare cases, family names are seldom used outside of the family circle. Children are often called names in rank of birth, such as Chi-hai, Chi-ba (daughter two, daughter three). One should call Vietnamese people by Mr., Mrs., or Miss until asked to go on a first name basis. They do not do this as quickly as Americans in their relationships with people. Especially important, when in the company of a third person, your friend must be called by his name with a Mr., Miss, or Mrs. proceeding it, as the case may be. If this is not done, it may suggest great intimacy or friendliness, or can also be interpreted as being arrogant treatment of the individual by a superior.
Most Vietnamese names consist of a family name, middle name and a personal or given name. The order is reverse to the American custom. For instance, John Paul Jones’ name in Vietnamese style would be Jones Paul John. However, we do not call someone by his family name in Vietnam. If we use the names for instance, Miss Hau Dinh Cam. Hau is the family name. We would call her Miss Cam. Jones Paul John would be Mr. John. On very informal occasions, we might at their request call them Cam or John, but would always add a Miss or Mr. to the name in the presence of other people outside of the group. An exception to this rule dates back to traditional customs of long ago when beloved leaders were called by their family names. It is desirable to call Vietnamese professional and government officials by their title, i.e., Mr. Assemblyman, Mr. Doctor, Mr. Lieutenant, etc.
TABOOS IN PERSONAL RELATIONSHIPS It is best to call to people in a quiet voice, using their names preceded by Mr. Mrs., or Miss. Waving or beckoning with an upturned finger is considered highly impolite. If you must silently signal for someone to come toward you, do so by using the whole hand with the palm turned down. Not to do so would indicate an air of authority or superiority over the person being called or beckoned. Never touch anyone on the head as this would be considered as a personal insult to the individual and perhaps even to his ancestors. Many Vietnamese believe the spirit resides there. Hence, the belief that if a person is beheaded, his spirit will roam forever without finding a resting place. Also, don’t touch anyone on the shoulder. Some people believe that a genie resides there and it is undesirable to disturb him. If you mistakenly touch one shoulder, you must also touch the other shoulder and this helps offset the bad luck.
INTERPRETING PERSONAL TRAITS OF THE VIETNAMESE Vietnamese people have a habit of not looking into your eyes when they talk to you. This is often because of shyness, but one of the main reasons is that traditionally they do not look into the eyes of those they respect or those higher in rank when talking to them. This is to indicate politeness.
The smile of a Vietnamese can be very confusing in Vietnam to an outsider and cause misunderstandings. In some Oriental countries, a smile can mean sorrow, worry, or embarrassment. In Vietnam, it may indicate a polite, but perhaps skeptical reaction to something, compliance or toleration of a blunder or misunderstanding, or on occasion represents submission to judgment that may be wrong or unfair. This is particularly true if the one making the judgment is at a superior level and perhaps has lost his temper. For instance, a laundress may ruin a favorite shirt and is called in by her employer to be asked about it. She may smile. This does not mean that she thinks it is funny that she burned the shirt, but instead is submission to the fact. If the owner of the shirt loses his temper, she may keep smiling indicating politeness or patience with superiors. Because of this, foreigners should be very cautious in voicing their opinions and perhaps be a little more delicate, more tolerant and restrain from being obstinate. Loud arguments or heated discussions are frowned upon and are seldom heard among the Vietnamese. Well-bred people are trained in self-discipline. It is best, Therefore, for Americans or other foreigners to do their best to keep tempers in check, no matter what the circumstances, lest they be looked upon with disdain.
Vietnamese seldom use a direct approach in their dealings. To do so indicates a lack of tact or delicacy. Directness is appreciated in the Western world, but not in Vietnam. The Vietnamese do not like to say "no" and will often reply "yes" when the answer should be negative. This problem is further complicated by Americans posing negative questions such as, "It doesn’t look like it will rain today, does it?" The correct answer is often the one given by the Vietnamese--"Yes." We expect to hear "No." Think it out and you will see that the Vietnamese is really correct. Best advice, don’t ask negative questions.
SUPERSTITIONS There are numerous taboos on all aspects of life in Vietnam, just as we have our omens of bad luck such as walking under a ladder. A few of them are as follows: ~ Don’t express lavish admiration for a new baby, because the devils might hear you and steal the child because of his desirability. ~ When going somewhere on business, avoid seeing a woman first. If you do see a woman first as you go out your door or on the way, postpone the trip. ~ Mirrors are often placed on front doors. If a dragon tries to get in, he will see his reflection and think that there is already a dragon there and go away. ~ Single bowls of rice and chopsticks should not be served. Always place at least two on a table. One bowl is for the dead. Never let chopsticks touch others or make unnecessary noise with them. Do not place chopsticks in food and leave them there. ~ Do not hand someone a toothpick. ~ Never buy one pillow or mattress pad, always buy two. ~ Do not use relative’s towels. ~ Do not overturn musical instruments, or beat both sides of a drum simultaneously. ~ Do not cut finger and toenails at night. ~ Going dutch with a Vietnamese is not appreciated. If you run into someone at a restaurant and you join his table, let him pay the whole bill or pay it all yourself. The senior person usually pays. ~ Gifts for brides and grooms are usually given in pairs, including blankets. A single item indicates the marriage is not expected to last long. Two less expensive items are more desired than one nicer one. ~ Educated people and others who are not in the peasant class do not work with their hands. To do so would appear to try to beat a poor peasant out of his job. In addition, it is considered beneath the dignity of refined people. ~ Hats are never worn inside churches, even Catholic ones.
Next time, a bit about our visit.
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Post by ~WineMe~DineMe~69 on Feb 25, 2007 13:03:36 GMT -6
those are some crazy superstitions but they crack me up!
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Keyser Soze
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Post by Keyser Soze on Feb 25, 2007 13:32:00 GMT -6
~ Don’t express lavish admiration for a new baby, because the devils might hear you and steal the child because of his desirability
but in most Latino\Indio cultures you can cancel all curses evoked by showing admiration for the child by touching his head with your right hand... everyone knows that!!
Cancel that "Evil Eye"... right hand only please!
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Post by ogeezer on Feb 26, 2007 8:14:15 GMT -6
That's the way of the oriental mind which is one of the reason our tasks there during the war was made so difficult ... much like it is in Iraq today ... you can never win the Hearts & Minds of country by looking at the people there thru American eyes and American values. It has to be done with some acceptance of their visions of the world.
Without offending either WMDM or KS, it is easy to see both are being too American to see the world thru rose-colored glasses. To be good ambassadors of American ideals, one or both need to accept the ways of others instead of making fun of peoples neither seems to understand.
I'm very passionate about this, prehaps because when I was there during the war, I came to know that most Americans never understood why the Vietnamese never seemed to display feelings of patriotism in the way Americans do. Having fought for thousands of years instead of hundreds like the U.S. has done, the essence of life has grown to place greater emphasis on family, home (as in place one resides), and food than upon abstractions of patriotic flag waving, or the chants of "USA...USA...USA..."
Now don't get me wrong, I'm just as patriotic as the next guy, maybe even more so than the average person. I'm willing to fight for issues I believe in which is why I kept going back to Vietnam, even when I knew the politicians back here were not going to let us win that war; and which is why I stayed in the armed forces as long as I did.
Saving face and losing face to the Vietnamese people isn't about winning or losing battles or even wars, its about personal perceptions of self. To perservere one must take the good along with the bad, winning and losing with equal measure, smile in the face of an enemy, be fun-loving instead of hatred-bent, making personal sacrifices without sacrificing what one believes in. Like the great leaders who came before me, the brave soldiers who fought and died on every battlefield, we all live by a similar motto: Loyality Above All Else Except Honor.
In their culture, whether by superstition or circumstance, its okay to act the fool as long as you're not being one at the same time. For you doubters out there, you might want remember that sound piece of advice!
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Post by ogeezer on Mar 1, 2007 9:54:02 GMT -6
FIRST IMPRESSION ON RETURNING TO VIETNAM You say to yourself, yikes isn’t Vietnam a communist country? Yes, but behind the go-go veneer it is a country that allows only one political party, the Communist Party and it used the Soviet Union and China as its models for the government. However, the government, after watching Thailand’s success with tourism, has cultivated a strong interest in developing tourism as a cash crop.
So as a visitor, life is good. But due to all these hidden wranglings, remember that no matter what you think you see and hear, the government is in complete control. With this in mind my strategy has been to stay away from any problems involving anything governmental related and just concentrate on being a good little tourist. Though I have to admit a plus to tight government control and their lack of the interest in personal freedoms is that the criminal element is held in check, and the threat of terrorism is minimal. There are very few American visitors in-country so it seems that wherever you go people are fascinated by Americans.
THUA THIEN PROVINCE The wife's relatives live in Huong Thuy, which in another thread I said was 15-miles from Hue; actually that was 15-kilometers or about 9-miles. And Huong Thuy is about half way between Hue city and the Hue airport, which during the war was the American base called Phu Bai (pronounced "Foo Ba").
In Hue, we stayed at Century Riverside Hotel, located on the banks of the Huong (Perfume) River is within easy access to the major tourist sites in Hue. It is an international 4-star hotel of 138 guest rooms + 9 suites offering spectacular riverfront views. Ours was one of those 9 suites. which comprises 3 rooms including a living area, bath, and deluxe master suite. Room facilities included satellite Star TV, mini-bar, hairdryer and in-house movies, and room-control air conditioning. The living area was 21' x 11' and furnished with luxurious sofa, handmade coffee-like table, and two comfortable lean-back chairs (all Russian made). The master suite was small compared to American standards, roughly 14' x 11' and equipped with a queen size bed. Like U.S. motor-hotels, the TV was mounted on wall bracket, and two small side table-drawer pieces was on either side of the bed. The bath was small, barely big enough for one person at a time, with short-narrow tub-shower combo, equally small lavatory-vanity, and toilet.
Electiricity is mainly 220V but in some areas 110V is also used. At our hotel, there was both, using a system of step-down transformers, one catering to Americans and the other to European and Asians.
Our entire cost for the hotel suite during our entire visit for 2 persons only came to $240 USD, not counting our food and laundry expenses. The Century is renowned for its' Hue delicacies and authentic Vietnamese food. Traditional dancing and songs make dining an experience few will forget. For the evening, what better than fresh seafood barbecues overlooking the Huong (Perfume) River, all for the equivalent of $15/day for the both of us. You never would find that in the US! More importantly, your money buys you safety, Air Conditioning, a friendly atmosphere, and someone else to combat the leacherous vendors as you stand at the door.
Because of apparent concerns of officials in the Socialist Republic of Vietnam (SRV) to my wife, whose father worked for an intelligence branch of the U.S. State Department during the war, and my three tours as a pathfinder-reconnaisance specialist with the Army, we were carted around in a government vehicle, and accompanied by two Viet minders, one who was also the driver. Yes I know, being transported around in a chauffeur driven Mercedes isn't exactly "Vietnam.". But heck, that's what the SRV was using. It cost us $18 a day for the vehicle and the two minders.
ROOM & BOARD When dining in our hotel or elsewhere, one had to be careful about the meat products. Meat and other perishable food products are not cared for in the same sanitary conditions that we are used to in the US. Shrimp (prawns as they are known there) should also be placed on the “think about it carefully before choosing” list. The shellfish there does not always come from the cleanest of waters. On the other hand, feel free to indulge in cooked veggies and the sweetest fruits you could ever imagine. Cabbage and bananas are staples here for any or all meals during the day. And meat you see butchered and prepared fresh is always better than the marketed items, which is why live poultry, pot-belly porkers, and to WMDM's discomfort, dog is always the best choices when eating away from the hotel.
The Vietnamese are normally much smaller in stature than an average American, with many women weighing under 100 pounds and men weighing between 115 and 135 pounds. In one day, a Vietnamese will consume only about two-thirds the calories that an American would, but the caloric intake per capita of 2,490 per day ranks among the highest in Asia.
The cuisine of Vietnam comes as a pleasant surprise, bordering to overwhelming shock, to many visitors and is definitely a part of the Vietnam experience not to be missed. One of the characteristics of Vietnamese food is that it is always fresh being bought the same morning straight from the market. Food is usually prepared with a minimum of oil and served with the ubiquitous fish sauce called nuoc mam. Typical Vietnamese dishes you can expect to try include pho - a type of rice noodle soup eaten for breakfast; cha gio - deep-fried spring rolls and goi ngo sen, a delicious salad made with lotus stems, shrimps and peanuts. Due to the strong Buddhist influence in Vietnam, vegetarian food is widely available. Vietnamese food is typically very spicy, rendering even some strong-willed tourists to tears by the explosion of ingredients on one's taste buds. Rice is the staple food. Other foods preferred are fish, pork, chicken, and ducks plus variety of soups laden with noodles, animal parts, spices, hot peppers, a pungent fish sauce, soy-bean sauces, vegetables, fresh fruits, and green tea. One of the most popular foods is the soup, Pho which is sold everywhere on the streets. Pho is the Vietnamese snack, and is eaten for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and anytime in between. The Americans have nick-named the mobile soup kitchens "Howard Johnson’s." Pho is a local dish that is most commonly eaten for breakfast; although, it is served throughout the day. The Vietnamese answer to fast food, pho is rice noodles and meat, most often chicken but occasionally pork, in a steaming broth. Served with a heaping plate of fresh greens and bean sprouts and usually a selection of spicy sauces and sliced hot red chili peppers. It is eaten with chopsticks and a large spoon. Throw in some sprouts, a few greens, a pepper or two and some sauce, mix it all up and enjoy! Eat the noodles, the meat, and vegetables but leave the broth (as tradition requires). Fruits and vegetables are wonderful and usually are of prime quality. Sweets are made from rice glutine, fruits, seed, and spices. Coconut cakes are very popular. Children love to be given American candy. If an American starts giving out candy to his little Vietnamese friends on the street, he should be prepared to continue the practice and not mind having hundreds of kids following him around. Chinese food is also popular is Vietnam.
The day we arrived at the wife's ancestorial home, we dined on grilled strips of pork, gammon and little pork mince patties soaked in nuoc mam. Fresh vermicelli noodles and a selection of ten various leafy herbs. Mix them all together in your bowl and enjoy!
One treat we especially liked was Banh Xeo. This Vietnamese dish resembles an egg omelette, but it is actually made using rice powder mixed with water, then fried in a skillet with pork, shrimp and bean sprouts. Served with rice paper, Vegetable greens and Nuoc Mam - equivalent to home ketchup/catsup is used here - you break off a portion, roll it up in rice paper with a few greens, then dip it in the fish sauce, and down the hatch.
Other traditional foods we had when away from the hotel included banh chung (a square cake made of sticky rice stuffed with beans and pork), mang (a soup of boiled bamboo shoots and flied pork) and xoi gac (orange sticky rice).
Another delicious meaty, but definetly 3-alarm soup, is Bon Bo Hue, a regional favorite, this spicy soup is served with a panorama of ingredients, that you add from the selection of fresh herbs and as much chili as you can handle.
While out on a boat tour to the numerous templed pagodas from the long line of dynasty rulers, we had enjoyed a meal, known as Goi Muc, a butter-soft calmari salad served with Prawn Crackers, Ca Loc Kho To, white fish steaks braised with fish sauce in a clay pot and Canh Chua Tom, Sour Prawn Soup, served with steamed rice and various sauces. All for less than $6 for both of us.
I'd go on but talking about all this food is making me hungry.
CLIMATE When we were there (mid-January to mid-February), it was also like late Spring in Texas. There are two seasons in Vietnam -- wet and dry. The dry season lasts from November to April but to call it dry is a misnomer. Away from the lowlands, in the higher elevations, short spells of rain or common. Along the coast (lowlands) barely any rain is encountered for many days then suddenly broken by a rainstorm. Then in May to October, the rainy season (called monsoon) begins which sometimes goes on for days or even weeks on end, without letup. Temperature wise, thermometer readings between 68 to 86 are common, year round; although in the mountains it does get cooler when winds blow. Typhoons are common along the coast between July and November. The hottest and most unpleasant time in South Vietnam is generally between February and April when the atmosphere is humid and the many storms that ravage the highlands seldom bring a cooling rain to the lowlands.
Rainfall in Vietnam is heavy. For the entire country, the yearly average is about 59 inches. The maximum annual amount of rain is usually registered at Hue where 110 inches during the monson season is not uncommon. Sai Gon's monthly rainfall average during the rainy season amounts pales to a mere 50 inches in comparison. In retrospect, in the film by the same name, Forest Gump said "One day it started to rain. And it didn't stop for five months." Well, that tells the story of Vietnam's weather.
...until next time when I'll talk about the Viet people & the day I fell of the wagon as they say
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Post by Sílený Jízda on Mar 1, 2007 12:36:23 GMT -6
I agree.
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Post by ogeezer on Mar 2, 2007 7:15:03 GMT -6
You tell a story very well. You should think about writing a book or submit a short story to a magazine Been there, done that -- but in the book writing dept, I've never had much luck with publishers who tilt to the LEFT or who don't have some of the interests I do. I do occassionally write guest columnist articles to newspapers & have filled in once or twice on an area homeowner repair and remodeling radio show. And when I was living in California, working for as a construction engineer for a film industry set production & design company, did write and option off a couple of screenplays to some film makers (but which never were made into films) - also because they were not anti-American enuff or portrayed the protagonist in too conservative of a light. And tho it wasn't writing, I did some un-credited technical advisory work on a couple of films for a well known director who, because of his Republican conservative philosophies, will NEVER receive an Academy Award Oscar as long as the progressive socialist liberals have control of that organization. As per writing professionally, NOPE! I'm gonna stick with posting on UNLEASHED as its more satisfying than dealing with all those publishing morons.
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Post by ~WineMe~DineMe~69 on Mar 2, 2007 16:19:51 GMT -6
You tell a story very well. You should think about writing a book or submit a short story to a magazine Been there, done that -- but in the book writing dept, I've never had much luck with publishers who tilt to the LEFT or who don't have some of the interests I do. I do occassionally write guest columnist articles to newspapers & have filled in once or twice on an area homeowner repair and remodeling radio show. And when I was living in California, working for as a construction engineer for a film industry set production & design company, did write and option off a couple of screenplays to some film makers (but which never were made into films) - also because they were not anti-American enuff or portrayed the protagonist in too conservative of a light. And tho it wasn't writing, I did some un-credited technical advisory work on a couple of films for a well known director who, because of his Republican conservative philosophies, will NEVER receive an Academy Award Oscar as long as the progressive socialist liberals have control of that organization. As per writing professionally, NOPE! I'm gonna stick with posting on UNLEASHED as its more satisfying than dealing with all those publishing morons. oh ogeezer, can i have your autograph? ;D
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Post by ogeezer on Mar 2, 2007 17:52:03 GMT -6
don't tell me youre an autograph hound? Geezus No! I never was ... which is why I don't collect them things ... won't give them things away ... not even for money! However, I will get hold of one of my sports agent friends and see if I can arrange to have the THE CHIPPENDALE SOCCER TEAM come over to your house and entertain you for few hours
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Post by ~WineMe~DineMe~69 on Mar 2, 2007 19:15:28 GMT -6
i'll be waiting!
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Post by ogeezer on Mar 3, 2007 7:03:16 GMT -6
Other than the bottled water, which you should be drinking a minimum of 2 liters per day, especially when consuming diuretic beverages such as coffee, tea and alcohol. TEATra is by far the most consumed beverage in Vietnam. It is served both hot Tra Nam, and iced Tra Da. Many hotel rooms offer a complementary thermos of hot water and a tea set. Vietnamese tea is slightly different from the tea we typically drink in the West. Loose tea leaves are steeped in a small teapot and then served in tiny tea cups. Green tea is most often drank in the countryside; black tea is consumed in the cities. Tra is so engrained in the culture, it's simply second nature. If you stop into a shop to inquire about renting a motorbike, you'll likely be invited to sit and have a cup of tea. Many restaurants will automatically serve you tea after dinner. Our favorite: go to a coffee shop and order a cup of coffee, you'll be served coffee - and a pot of tea. ALCOHOLBeing a reformed alcoholic whose been on the wagon for many years, going back to Vietnam presented me with some rather difficult challenges. Alcohol being my greatest. Everybody in the country drinks it, and being a visitor there, it would be impolite, bordering on an insult to my host to not partake in the consumption of such spirits. Except for rice alcoholic beverages, most of the alcoholic beverage drinking can be traced back to the French, which maintained Vietnam as a colony for several hundred years. The French, among other things, are notorious for drinking alcohol, in wines, whiskeys, and champaigns, which the Vietnamese pretty much copied. Beer, on the other hand, came to the country from the Czech's and Germans. Spend any time in the Vietnam and you will know all about Ruou Gao (rice whiskey). This strong alcoholic beverage is a fermented rice wine, similar in appearance and taste to Japanese Sake. I've never seen it commercially made but is homemade by villagers and readily available throughout Vietnam. It's the Viet version of American made "White Lightning," and is sometimes made the same way, with the same ill-fated results. Served in small tea cups, sometimes with guava fruit, this stuff will hit you hard! It doesn't help that there's always someone in the crowd repeatedly shouting, Tram Phan Tram! literally meaning Bottoms Up! As is the problem with most alcoholics, drinking isn't the major worry. Not drinking again once one is off-the-wagon is. While there, I easily drank with the best of them. But having returned, everyday is another day of dealing with the challenge to staying off booze. Back three weeks now, and I can say I'm still sober but staying that way plagues me immensely because if there was ever a demon who could bring me down, alcohol is it. MICRO-BREWBia Hoi, or "fresh beer", is Vietnam's version of a micro brew. This refreshing, light-bodied Pilsner was first introduced in Vietnam by the Czechs. Brewed without preservatives, it is meant to be enjoyed immediately. Decades later Bia Hoi is still brewed and delivered daily to drinking establishments throughout Sai Gon, and in the still thriving, former American War GI haunts such as the Apocalypse Now bar AND Saigon Bar in present day Ho Chi Mihn city. Bia Hoi then is the drink of the masses - the working man's refreshment. - A woman drinking Bia Hoi, especially unaccompanied, verges on scandalous! But having an American in the establishment, especially with his Vietnamese wife, well that was kind of a treat for them. Bia Hoi is as much a social experience as a beer, I was not surprised when some of my in-laws invited me to join fellow patrons in celebration. Without being disrespectful to my Vietnamese hosts, I raised my glass with our two Viet minders, Nhan (our driver) and Pham (our liason), sharing the common language of bar patrons the world over - BEER. Of course, with these gentlemen, the volume of their voices seemingly rises as the level in the plastic jugs drew down. Having dedicated countless hours to in-depth research during my years in Vietnam during the war, I consider myself a connoisseur of Bia Hoi and the decidedly down-scale establishments where it is served. Bia Hoi varies widely in price, ranging from cheap to dirt cheap. In Saigon, Bia Hoi is most often served by the liter for around 5,000 dong (about 35 cents). Here in Hue, it goes for about 50-cents (7150 dong). Proper etiquette stipulates Bia Hoi be poured into a mug over ice. Many neighborhood establishments consist of little more than a couple of stools and a folding table in the proprietor's living room. Others are sprawling, outdoor beer gardens, reminiscent of those found in Bavaria. Most establishments offer cheap eats to whet your appetite, such as dau phong ( peanuts), cha gio (fried spring rolls) and canh ga chien (fried chicken wings). The more adventurous may wish to sample local favorites muc kho (dried squid) or WMDM's least favorite treat, thit cho (dog meat). Whatever your taste, enjoy the laid back atmosphere and friendly camaraderie. To locate these purveyors of liquid refreshment look for the ubiquitous hand-painted words "Bia Hoi" scrawled across a wooden sign. The temporary nature of the signs allows them to easily be posted or removed depending on availability! My favorite was a raucous, open-air garage, a block down from our hotel where we (wife+I) met our minders before setting out on that day's excursion. The place is the staging ground for a lively afternoon crowd, so that when we returned before our curfew hour. On our final evening in Hue, the wife and I took in the sights from within the bia hoi establishment, watching a myriad street vendors hawk their wares - cigarettes, gum, nuts, dried fish, trinkets and trash, while a cacophony of street sounds serves as background to the oriental music playing thru a governmental-controlled radio station radio speakers. If you think you're ready to try Bia Hoi, be prepared - drinking with the pros is not for the meek! A Western face is a bit unusual at any Bia Hoi establishment and inevitablly attracts curious attention from fellow patrons. Raising your glass in toast more often than not results in an invitation to join a group. Enthusiasm for quaffing endless rounds of beer seems to be waning at my table; glasses are half-full, the bottles nearly empty - perhaps we've killed the keg!? Tho nobody is certain for sure. The the proprietor wanders over to our table, leans on the back of my chair with one hand and counts the empty bottles with the other. He mentally makes an adjustment for the food we have consumed and apprises us of the damages - 110,000 dong (about $7.50). I reach for my wallet, but my new-found friends, our minders who were with us everyday we were in-country, will have none of it; insisting it's their treat. We thank them and stumble out into the night. Following are my top tips for enjoying Bia Hoi...and living to stumble home or back to the hotel afterward: - Insist on Bia Hoi - don't allow the attractive girl in the San Miguel T-shirt sway you to her brand. (Don't worry, she'll still fill your glass with ice!)
- Do purchase cigarettes from the girls in the Craven or Marlboro T-shirts. If you smoke, consider purchasing a carton. If you don't smoke, a pack or two should suffice, to be given as gifts to those who came with you into the establishment.
- Never drink Bia Hoi on an empty stomach, reason for the edible treats that always come with the micro-brew.
- Learn to say, khong, the Vietnamese word for NO. You'll need it for the dozens of vendors who will accost you.
- Bring plenty of small denomination notes for all the stuff you'll buy from the vendors to whom you told khong, also to be given away as gifts to host, patrons, minders, or hotel staff upon your return there.
- Never fill your own glass with Bia Hoi.
- Always fill your companions' glasses with Bia Hoi, and
- It is considered poor form to lay your head on the table; or for lying face-down on the floor (aka passed out).
and finally Tram Phan Tram! ...until next time when well, I haven't thot that for ahead yet!
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Post by ~WineMe~DineMe~69 on Mar 3, 2007 8:59:50 GMT -6
what happen's if you pass out on at the table over there?
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Post by ogeezer on Mar 4, 2007 9:48:42 GMT -6
what happen's if you pass out on at the table over there? same two things they do here: - If you've aggravated somebody they liked, they'll call the law. Unlike in the U.S., you don't want to end up in a Vietnamese jail, it makes Mexican jails seem like Club Med.
OR
- They'll throw your a$$ out into the street, to be picked over by the street people.
Either way, it's not the thing you want happen. So once again, with gusto: Tram Phan Tram!
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Post by ~WineMe~DineMe~69 on Mar 4, 2007 16:10:25 GMT -6
what happen's if you pass out on at the table over there? same two things they do here: - If you've aggravated somebody they liked, they'll call the law. Unlike in the U.S., you don't want to end up in a Vietnamese jail, it makes Mexican jails seem like Club Med.
OR
- They'll throw your a$$ out into the street, to be picked over by the street people.
Either way, it's not the thing you want happen. So once again, with gusto: Tram Phan Tram!yikes! better stay away from there!! j/k iv'e never been that bad ;D
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Post by Sílený Jízda on Mar 4, 2007 23:39:52 GMT -6
You can't beat learning how to brew from the masters.
;D
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Post by ogeezer on Mar 5, 2007 7:45:17 GMT -6
There was an interesting piece on one of the Discovery channels, not long ago, that told of how the Americans became primary connoisseurs of brewed alcohols and whiskeys instead of wines and champaignes.
It had to do with the little Ice Age, which reaped havoc on grape harvests in northern reaches of Europe into the Russian Balkins. Grapes don't do well where it gets cold. Grains, like barley and wheat do. As do potatoes. Hopps tho a warm weather crop became a trade good from warm climes northward.
Anyway, that's what got the Czechs & later the Germans, with knowledge of beer making acquired from the middle east/eqyptians, into making beers, ales and whiskeys. While the grape growing (warmer clime) area like in Italy and s.France remained loyal to wine & champaigne.
Then during the migrations of Europeans to America, first from n.Europe & Ireland, the making of spirits the immigrants brought with them, tied to the climate spelled out why beer & whiskey became the nat'l drink of choice. Then later, as the Italians arrived, wine making in the newly colonized west, California brought along the consumption of wines -- which explains why most American wineries are out west & most breweries are east of the Conteniental Divide, especially at the jumping off points to the migrations westward to Oregon & California.
Or so sez, the Discovery channel presentation
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Post by ~WineMe~DineMe~69 on Mar 5, 2007 15:24:13 GMT -6
so what would you say is the drink of choice in The Nam? water, tea, rice wine?
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